As mentioned in a previous column, Viking River Cruises offers several European trips. I recently had the pleasure of travelling part of Germany along the Danube River — starting in a city nearly 1,000 years old.

Nuremberg, once a medieval metropolis, is still surrounded by 13th century walls. Throughout its history it was known for toymaking, metalwork, and inventions like the world’s first pocket watch (circa 1510). It’s also known for the Imperial Castle, an imposing fortress on sandstone cliffs that looms high above the cobblestone streets.

Nuremberg earned an infamous distinction in the 20th century as the site of the Nazi party rallies, and production headquarters for aircraft and submarines. Because of its significance to military efforts, nearly 90 per cent of the city was destroyed during Second World War. Later, the Nuremberg trials took place post-war in the Palace of Justice — one of the few buildings that remained undamaged despite extensive Allied bombing.  

Another interesting thing I learned about Nuremberg is that it’s the second largest city in Germany’s largest state. Bavaria was its own kingdom before joining the German Empire in 1871, and for a long time maintained special rights within the federation. Today, many locals still consider Bavaria its own country, with its own identity and distinct culture.

Regensburg, in Bavaria, is one of the best-preserved medieval cities in Europe. Its best-known landmark is St. Peter’s Cathedral, a stunning example of Gothic architecture. The church has existed since 700 AD, however, fires caused it to be rebuilt several times. The current structure was completed in around 1520, and is truly glorious. In Gothic tradition, the closer you are to Heaven, the closer you are to God. That’s why St. Peter’s towering twin spires are almost 350 feet high.

The aptly named oldest bridge in Germany — the Old Stone Bridge — was built in the 12th Century. Until the 1930s, it was the city’s only span across the Danube. It’s now a walking bridge, and leads to one of Regensburg’s treasures: the outdoor “biergarten.”

Spitalgarten has been brewing since 1226, and believed to be the world’s oldest “hospital brewery.” On sunny days it offers shady reprieve in a beautiful setting. It also serves frosty foam-topped beer in ginormous steins — which I suspect only tourists order. This I deduced after looking around and realizing we were the only ones drinking beverages of this sheer size.

Everyone else was sipping from pint glasses. Everyone else was also speaking German.
Passau, known as the “City of Three Rivers,” is situated at the confluence of the Danube, the Ilz, and the Inn. It’s a city of great resilience, having been ravaged many times by fire and floods. It’s home to heavenly music, with St. Stephen’s housing the world’s largest cathedral organ. I’m not sure who counted all 17,974 pipes, but I’ll take their word for it.

Passau is also the last stop before the Austrian border, and last chance to climb 200 stairs up a mountain, in stifling heat, to a fortress founded in 1219. Once you (thankfully!) reach the top, you can hoist a massive mug in another biergarten at the edge of a cliff, and toast to the unbelievably spectacular view of the German countryside far below. You might also want to toast the fact you made it to the top alive, and that it’s (thankfully!) all downhill from there.  

RoseAnna Schick is an avid traveller and music lover who seeks inspiration wherever
she goes. Email her at rascreative@yahoo.ca