Munich: city guide. Beer, baroque, neo-gothic and fairytale splendour in this …

Why go

The famous Oktoberfest beer party is a big draw for tourists each year, but Munich’s charm goes far beyond its famous tipple. People may come for the beer halls with the buxom, dirndl-clad waitresses and men in traditional lederhosen, but they stay for the classical beauty of the capital of Bavaria, Germany’s biggest – and richest – state.

It’s an enticing destination that blends tradition with modernism and is an art and architecture-lover’s dream. Stunning baroque and neo-classical mansions and picturesque palaces nestle close to gothic and medieval structures and the striking modernism of its Olympic Park. It may be the country’s second-largest city, but it’s a joy to explore the city centre on foot.

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What to do
Munich New Town Hall at Marienplatz Foto: Alexander Tolstykh / Shutterstock
The New Town Hall at Marienplatz

Start with Marienplatz, the city’s most central square. Here you’ll find the neo-gothic Neues Rathaus and its famous Glockenspiel figurines and 43 chiming bells. Another famous city landmark very close by is the late-gothic Frauenkirche cathedral, while the neighbouring Viktualienmarkt farmer’s market, with more than 140 stalls, is the place to stock up on local delicacies or enjoy a beer in one of the beer gardens.

You can’t come to Munich without seeing at least one fairytale palace. The baroque Nymphenburg Palace, which used to be the summer residence of Bavaria’s monarchs, is widely considered to be one of Europe’s most stunning royal residences.

Munich City Museum. St Jakobs Platz. Munich Tourist Office 620
Munich City Museum on St Jakobs Platz, one of myriad galleries and museums

If museums and galleries are more your thing, you’ll be spoilt for choice as Munich is home to some of Germany’s best, including the Pinakothek der Moderne, the biggest museum for modern art in the country, and the Deutsches Museum, one of the oldest and largest technology and science museums in the world.

The exclusive designer boutiques of the Maximilianstrasse are a paradise for shoppers.

Where to stay
Munich Mandarin Oriental 620
Five-star luxury at the Mandarin Oriental

Munich has several lavish five-star hotels in the heart of the city, including the incredible Mandarin Oriental, but we particularly like the rooftop views from the Bayerischer Hof and the extravagantly elegant Kempinski on Maxmilianstrasse.

If you don’t fancy spending all your savings at once, try the sophisticated Cortiina hotel, a more boutique, design-led option that’s kinder to the wallet but still right in the city centre.

Design hotel fans on a budget will love the contemporary Anna Hotel. Other options are Flushing Meadows, a chic hotel with loft suites in a converted industrial building and a lively rooftop bar, and Hotel Opéra, housed in a beautifully renovated townhouse.

Munich. Hotel Strachus
Hotel Strachus is a cheaper but good option

Budget design hotels Cocoon (especially the artsy Stachus) and chains H’otello and Motel One, all located in buzzy neighbourhoods, are also well worth a look.

If you don’t mind being slightly outside the centre, the Laimer Hof is a wonderful find. This charming hotel is just around the corner from the Nymphenburg Palace. For something a little different, try one of Germany’s ‘organic hotels’, the eco-friendly Alter Wirt, which also has an in-house organic restaurant.

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Where to eat
Munich Hofbraeuhaus Foto: BBMC Tobias Ranzinger
The popular Hofbrauhaus beer hall

The vast Hofbrauhaus is Munich’s most traditional beer hall and dates back to 1598 but it is very popular. Try the gooey käsespätzle (pasta-like dumplings with cheese and onions) with a huge Stein. Other beer gardens worth mentioning are the Hirschgarten, the world’s largest, holding a mammoth 8,000 people, and the Augustiner-Keller, which is most beautiful in summer.

For a centrally located, traditional restaurant, which is not too touristy, try the Andechser am Dom. For a more modern, upmarket experience, head to Brenner Grill or real foodies head for the intimate (28 seats) Schweiger2 im Showroom, which is known for its well-balanced four- or nine-course tasting menus. The stylish Tantris restaurant is popular in the hip Schwabing district.

Germany has a well-deserved reputation for incredible cakes, pastries and unlimited brunches and Munich is no exception, with cafés on every corner. Marvel at the array of delicacies on offer at the ten-metre-long cake counter at Café Luitpold or grab a coffee and a piping-hot schmalznudel (a deliciously addictive pastry doughnut) at Café Frischut, next to the Viktualienmarkt.

Munich at night. Munich Tourist Office
Munich on a summer evening
Getting around

The tram (S-Bahn) and the underground (U-Bahn) are reasonably priced and easy to navigate. When you buy a ticket, don’t forget to time stamp it in one of the little machines to validate it or you could face an on-the-spot fine. If you’re staying in the city centre, most places are easily accessible on foot.

For inter-city travel, you can choose from high-speed (and higher-priced) trains and local regional trains at the main stations. Posters on the main concourse helpfully indicate the departure platforms and times for all the trains.

When to go

Munich is beautiful at any time of year, so it all depends what you’re looking for from your visit. Balmy summertime temperatures mean visitors can enjoy the beer gardens but Christmas in Munich is also rather special. The world-renowned Oktoberfest Bavarian beer and culture festival is a real pull for those looking for a party atmosphere. However, the ever-increasing numbers of visitors mean it’s often a better (and cheaper) option to visit this charming city in late-spring when it’s mild enough to enjoy the beer gardens without the crowds.

For a more manageable version of Oktoberfest, come in Starkbierzeit (two weeks around St Joseph’s Day in March) for the Strong Beer Festival, which celebrates the strong doppelbock beer.

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Three things we like
Neuschwanstein Castle flickr Paul Gagnon
Castle Neuschwanstein, a 19th-century Romanesque Revival palace worth a day trip
  1. The outdoor swimming opportunities. In summer, take a picnic, enjoy the sun and the scenery and then cool off at the Maria Einsiedel natural outdoor pool, which is filled with chemical-free filtered water straight from the river Isar.
  2. The Olympiapark. Relax by the lake, then take the lift to the top of the Olympic Tower for stunning panoramic views and, while you’re there, check out the futuristic architecture of the neighbouring BMW World building. It’s an interesting trip even if you’re not a particular fan of cars.
  3. The myriad day-trip opportunities. Head to the fairytale splendour of Castle Neuschwanstein, which sits atop a rugged hill in south-west Bavaria, deep in the Bavarian countryside. Or the Kehlsteinhaus (Eagle’s Nest in English), the teahouse perched on a mountain peak that was built for Hitler’s 50th birthday.      
Munich Olympic Park Photo- Olympic Park Munich
Munich Olympic Park, constructed for the 1972 Summer Olympics
Something we don’t

The area around the main station (Hauptbahnhof) is best avoided after dark, but it’s no worse than you would find in most other big cities.

Don’t miss

The 900-acre English Garden park. Whether you want to sunbathe, relax in the beer gardens, watch the incredible river surfers riding the man-made wave on the Eisbach river or explore the Japanese teahouse and waterfalls, this enormous public park (far bigger than London’s Hyde Park) will keep you busy all day.

The beer halls. You don’t have to come during Oktoberfest to make the most of the city’s favourite tipple. For a genuine Brauhaus experience, head to the most famous of them all, the Hofbrauhaus.

Enjoy delicious breakfast, incredible cakes and a mouth-watering selection of retro cocktails in the cool, vintage surroundings of Café Jasmin.

High50 insider tips
Munich. Chocolaterie Beluga
Don’t miss a visit to Chocolaterie Beluga
  • For a traditional Bavarian thirst quencher, ask for a Radler (literally, ‘cyclist’), light beer mixed with lemonade – far tastier than a shandy or a Diesel (lager with cola).
  • Enjoy some of the best chocolate you’ve ever had (and definitely the best brownies) at Chocolaterie Beluga at the Viktualienmarkt.
  • Der verrückte Eismacher ice cream parlour will turn all your ice cream expectations on your head. No ingredient is too crazy. From sweet mustard to Schnitzel, anything is possible.

Travelling with family

No problem. It’s a tourist and family-friendly city and there’s plenty to keep the young and the young-at-heart equally well entertained.

Need to know

  • The average flight time from the UK is one hour and 50 minutes.
  • The timezone is one hour ahead of the UK (GMT +1).
  • The currency is the Euro.
  • Service is sometimes included, but it’s customary to round up by around ten per cent.
  • Two-pin European sockets are the norm, so take an adaptor.
  • The weather is quite similar to the UK, but hotter in summer, so pack sunscreen.
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