Oktoberfest continues, and today we look at some of the Paulaner beers of Bavaria. Based in Munich, the Paulaner M�nchen has been brewing since 1634, when the order of the Paulaner monks began brewing beer in the Au, thereby laying the foundation stone for today’s Paulaner brewery. It is prepared according to the Bavarian Purity Law — the oldest food law, whereby Duke Wilhelm IV of Bavaria stipulated that only barley, hops, water and yeast may be used to brew beer.

The hops approved for Paulaner come from the Hallertau region of Bavaria, the yeast from its own culture, the brewing malt from the region and the purest, softest brewing water from its own two deep wells on the Nockherberg.

Brother Barnabas, who managed the Paulaner brewery in 1773, developed a filling double bock for Lent. The monks called it Heilig-Vater-Bier (‘Holy Father’), which was later on changed to Sankt-Vater and became the contemporary “Salvator.” Brother Barnabus’ strong and dark, not too sweet, full-bodied, malty brew sustained the population for centuries, and went into export in the early 19th century.

Located on the Nockherberg, the highest hill in Munich, Paulaner is a minor beer-making city, complete with enormous biergarten, and the site for the annual Starkbier-Anstich — the Opening of the First Keg — in May, a two-week carnival first held in the Middle Ages where the local Count and his court were entertained free of charge by the brothers. However, in return they had to listen to a sermon which made fun of them by recalling their mistakes of the past year.

When Napoleon abolished the monasteries, and the brewery went into private hands, the tradition continued, moving from the Count to the Prime Minister of Bavaria, Germany’s Chancellor, members of the cabinet and leading members of the opposition parties.

Apparently, the politicians don’t mind since Starkbier-Anstich is the one time of the year they can appear plotzed in public without getting into trouble.

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The Beer: Paulaner Oktoberfest-M�rzen, $10.99 for a six-pack

The brewer says: A golden, bottom-fermented, typical Bavarian speciality beer for the Oktoberfest, fermented to medium strength, with a malty and very mildly bitter taste.

The critics say: “Fantastic German lager that really allows the noble hops to shine, but definitely showcasing the toasted bread and molasses malt flavors to differentiate it from a helles or even a Vienna lager. Crisp and bracing with easy drinkability and thirst quenching ability. Medium body, medium carbonation.” —beeradvocate.com

The Gazette says: Perfect lager for cooler fall temperatures, the weight of the beer can match the temperatures. Three-finger head, spotty lacing. The beer is a coppery-brown color, full-bodied without being too bitter or heavy. The nose has a caramel and malt; the flavor is a mild, toasted grain.

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The Beer: Paulaner Hefe-Weizen, $9.99 for a six-pack

The brewer says: The Paulaner Hefe-Weizen natural cloudy beer is our brewery’s best-selling product. Specifically cultivated, top-fermented yeast give it its unmistakable character: sparklingly mild and fruity with a delicate yeast flavour. … The unfiltered brewing method allows it to retain its natural authenticity along with the many vitamins, minerals and trace elements.

The critics say: “An earthy, slightly sweet, caramelized aroma starts this beer off in spectactular fashion. The excellent grain and biscuit-like malt profile give a smooth yet complex taste, and the low (but noticeable) hop flavor is well balanced.” —beermag.com

The Gazette says: A heavy head covers a bright orange color, which seems to glow in the sun due to the fact it is unfiltered (This was tasted in a biergarten). A gentle caramel taste balances the hops, it feels like apricot nectar in the mouth, with a yeast-bread balance to the sweetness of fruit. Excellent beer, indoors or out.

Imbibiana

I’ve heard the pumpkin beers are almost gone from the stores. As of Thursday, the New Belgium Pumpkick was available at Mulready’s. Others worth trying include Free State’s Oktoberfest, Blue Moon Harvest Ale (very nice) and Samuel Adams (rather plain for me, but novices will probably like it better).