Frederic Huels pouring a liter of beer at Hophaus. Picture: Ellen Smith
Source: News Limited
KOREAN? Check. Peruvian? You bet. New-wave Vietnamese? Everywhere you look.
But German?
In the annual “hottest food trends for 2014” articles that appeared at the start of the year, we foodies overlooked Bavaria as Melbourne’s next culinary hotspot.
But with news the Sydney-based Urban Purveyor Group will open the Munich Brauhaus, a mammoth 900-seater beer hall at South Wharf come August, which will join the recently opened Hophaus at Southbank, in terms of bums on seats the Germans look to trump them all.
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Of course, to the Hofbrauhaus, which has clocked up an impressive 46 years of bier and schnapps and lots of schwein in the city, it seems it’s just a case of everything old is new again, but this new breed of Bavaria in our CBD turns down the lederhosen and turns up the style.
That’s certainly the case at Hophaus, which has taken over the old Bluetrain site and turned it into a paradise of pork where Munich meets Melbourne.
The new Hophaus at Southgate. Picture: Ellen Smith
Source: News Limited
Architect Peter Maddison (who moonlights as the host of Grand Designs Australia) was brought in to transform the prime Southgate position into a modern rendering of a bier hall.
He’s done a great job. It’s a bright and surprisingly beautiful space, with a large bar featuring polychrome brickwork and local artisan wrought-iron fittings.
The space is split into areas with varying degrees of service; there’s the restaurant in front of the open-plan kitchen with bookings and table service, the pay-as-you-go central bar area, as well as another room for eating and drinking used when things get hectic.
Which they tend to do later in the week, with city suits, camera-toting tourists and German expats keen for some Fatherland fare all happily clinking steins.
Weiner Schnitzel, beer and kasespatzle. Picture: Ellen Smith
Source: News Limited
FOOD
Think German essen is all about sausages, meats, sauerkraut and potatoes?
The Hophaus kitchen isn’t going to dissuade you of that impression.
Taking pride of place in the kitchen is a charcoal-fired rotisserie oven, which can, apparently, cook a whole chook in only 13 minutes.
That chicken (free range, $28) makes up one of the signature fleischplatten, all of which come with potato salad, sauerkraut and a trio of mustards to slather across.
The heartiest of all is the Bavarian Platter ($45) a groaning board laden with leberwurst and pickle, marinated herring, sausages, barbecued beef brisket, shredded pork and more.
It is, obviously, one to share.
Germans are, quite rightfully, proud of their extensive sausage heritage, and the wurstplatten ($25, pictured) is a great introduction to the genre.
Five types of sausage, cooked over coals, are served with some good pickled red cabbage, a bit of mustard-y potato salad and sauerkraut that purists will find far too sweet.
You get a bratwurst, cheese kransky, frankfurt (of course), an excellent weisswurst, and a debrinzer.
Delicious. Picture: Ellen Smith
Source: News Limited
Most will have come across the first three types; the others are a little more interesting and exotic — especially the smoky, paprika-heavy debrinzer.
Though this platter would qualify as little more than a snack in Germany, here it almost makes for a meal for two — especially if you team it with this winter’s Best Side Dish, the kasespatzle ($9).
A German take on mac and cheese, traditional potato noodles, spatzle, come drowning in an oniony, cheesy, gloriously smoky sauce topped with breadcrumbs. Book the cardiologist and tuck on in.
The Wiener schnitzel ($26.50) is a great version of the classic; two generous veal pieces, crisp-crumbed and fried to a golden tan, crown a chunky potato salad and a red cabbage-heavy coleslaw.
“We have many people who love it, and say it’s just like at home,” our Belgian waitress says. “And others who tell us it should be made with pork.” Ah, yes, the old, it’s good, but it’s not like mutti used to make.
Our waitress says they have been getting a bit of that from the old-timer expats.
Hophaus Southgate boasts an extensive beer and cider list. Picture: Ellen Smith
Source: News Limited
DRINKS
Believe it or not, there’s an extensive wine list, and though there’s a good range of German and Austrian aromatics, the mark-ups across the board are breathtaking — at three times retail, Red Claw pinot gris for $65 is outrageous any way you look at it.
You’re much better off drinking beer, and let’s face it, that’s what most people will want to do here.
There are seven German beers on tap, along with a couple of other Europeans; my Bitburger ($9 500ml/$16 stein) was beautifully poured, with a proper thick and creamy head.
SERVICE
The young, funky and authentically accented staff keep things moving fairly efficiently. A warm, friendly greeting and a hearty farewell go a long way — and the staff seems well trained in these basics.
X-FACTOR
The full-width terrace with its great city views is a multi-season affair; with heaters keeping things warm in winter, the roller blinds opening up when the summer sun shines. It’s a great-looking space that brings the bierhaus into the 21st century.
BANG FOR YOUR BUCK
The menu is keenly priced (especially for Southbank) and if you leave hungry, you’re doing something wrong. Early week deals — a beer paddle and pork
for $19, or schnitzel and beer for $19 — keep both wallet and belly happy.
It’s the little things that make Hophaus authentic. Picture: Ellen Smith
Source: News Limited
VERDICT
Hophaus is a great addition to Southgate’s recent renaissance. Beaut beer and hearty fare without the oom-pah-pah — there’s lots to like about this new-look German.
Hophaus bier bar
Mid level,
Southgate, Southbank
9682 5900
FOOD
German
HOURS
Lunch and dinner daily
CHEF
Anthony Caruso
BOOKINGS
Yes
TABLE FOR TWO
@7.30PM? Yes
TIME BETWEEN
ORDERING AND
EATING
20 mins
PERFECT FOR
Hearty hungers and thirsty travellers
DESTINATION DISH
Wurstplatten
NOISE FACTOR
Boisterous
when busy
ONLINE
hophaus.com.au
REVIEWS ARE UNANNOUNCED AND PAID FOR BY WEEKEND. RESTAURANTS ARE NOT REVIEWED IN THE FIRST MONTH OF OPENING