While a visit to Munich, Germany is not complete without sausages, pretzels and beer, Roger and I found that the capital of Bavaria is much more than its celebrated beer halls, beer gardens and even the world-renowned Oktoberfest.
It’s also a city of technology, culture and sports. We had 48 hours from our arrival by train to our flight departure. With its beautifully restored Old Town, regal gardens, a lively food market, more than 80 museums, as well as BMW World, Museum and plant, there wasn’t enough time for all we wanted to see and do.
We opted for the convenience of the narrated Gray Line Hop-On Hop-Off double-decker bus tour. Our 24-hour tickets gave us an overview of the city, easy access to its top attractions and time afterwards to explore independently.
Here is what we discovered on this tour, from a city guide the next day, and on our own:
Art and culture
The first bus stop was in the art museum district, site of the Alte (Old) Pinakothek. It was built by Ludvig I for the art collection of the House of Wittelsbach, which ruled from 1180 to 1918 as dukes, electors and, when Bavaria became a kingdom, as kings. Among its collection of 14th to 18th century art is the largest Rubens collection in the world, including his “Last Judgment,” one of his largest canvasses.
This district also includes the New Pinakothek , which houses 18th and 19th century art, and the Pinakothek of Modern Art (20th century art) as well as museums of Greek and Roman art, Egyptian art and several galleries.
Other top museums in Munich include the Deutsches Museum, which is the world’s largest technical and scientific museum, the Bavarian National Museum, home to treasures from the Wittelsbachs and throughout Europe, and the Munich City Museum, known for its 15th century Morris Dancers.
Next was Odeonsplatz, a beautiful square named for a 19th century concert hall bombed in World War II. This area was outside the city until the walls were torn down in the late 1700s. Ludwig I had this square built as a gateway to Ludwigstrasse, a boulevard of monuments and impressive buildings that connects Odeonsplatz to the Triumphal Arch.
This is the stop for two 17th century gems – Maximilian I’s Italian-style formal garden Hofgarten and Theatinerkirche, an Italian high-Baroque style church with an 18th century Rococo facade.
The square’s Felderrnhalle was modeled after the Loggia dei Lanzi in Florence and built to honor the Bavarian army. It became a Nazi shrine in 1923 after the Beer Hall Putsch, when four policemen and 16 Nazis were killed in an encounter between Bavarian police and Hitler and his early supporters. Hitler served nine months of his 5-year prison sentence for the event, during which he wrote “Mein Kampf.”
The next stop was another Ludwig I project, Max-Joseph-Platz, site of the Wittelsbach royal residence, which is now one of Bavaria’s largest museums. It includes Cuvillies Theater, the world’s finest Rococo theater, and the Schatzkammer, the treasury of Wittelsbach jewels.
The square’s bronze statue features Ludwig I’s father, Bavaria’s first king, Maximilan I Joseph, who we were told did not want to be depicted seated lest he appear seated on another sort of throne. His son did so anyway.
Munich’s opera company, founded in 1653, is based in the square’s National Theater. Munich’s Opera Festival is one of the world’s finest.
Shopping
A mile of the most luxurious shops are on Maximilian Street. The Maximilianeum, on the eastern end, was built by King Maximilian II to provide room and board for top students, a tradition that continues today.
The next stop, Marienplatz, was named for the Virgin Mary for protection from the cholera epidemic. Its food market was moved to nearby Viktualienmarkt in 1807, and medieval jousting, tournaments and public executions are no longer held here, but Marienplatz remains the heart of Munich.
Views and history
The original Old Town Hall, destroyed by fire in the 1400s and bombed in World War II, was rebuilt according to the original plans. The Toy Museum is inside, and there is a spectacular view from the top of the 12th century tower.
Construction of the majestic Flemish Gothic New Town Hall began in 1867. A 1909 addition and 259-foot tower made this impressive building 300-feet long. Its two-story glockenspiel has 32 nearly life-size figures that reenact 16th century events at 11 a.m., noon and, except during winter, 5 p.m.
The upper level depicts part of local Duke Wilhelm V and Renata of Lorraine’s wedding celebration, complete with jousting tournaments. The Barrel Maker’s Dance, Schäfflertanz, is performed on the lower level. In 1517, coopers danced in the streets with hoops wrapped in greens to show that the plague was over and the streets were safe.
Every seven years, dancers, hoop twirlers, and clowns perform the Schäfflertanz in Munich during the German carnival, Fasching. The next performance runs Jan. 6 to March 5, 2019.
The nearby Frauenkirche, Cathedral Church of Our Lady, is the symbol of Munich. Built in 1468 and rebuilt after World War II bombing, it’s said to have the footprint of the Devil on the entrance floor. Climb the south tower for a stellar view of the city and Alps.
It’s a short walk to the popular and colorful beer hall, Hofbrauhaus, established by Duke Wilhelm V in 1589 for brewing royal beer. Regulars have reserved tables, and waitresses in dirndls serve huge pretzels and steins of beer.
Three city gates and the domed Palace of Justice dominate the next stop, Karlsplatz. It is often called Stachus for its popular beer garden but was named for elector Karl Theodor, who had the city wall demolished. The pedestrian shopping district runs between Karlstor, one of three city gates, and Marienplatz.
We spotted signs for Munich’s annual Oktoberfest as we passed the Löwenbräu (“lion’s brew”) keller, one of the oldest beer gardens in Munich. Oktoberfest began in 1810 as a peoples’ celebration for crown prince Ludwig of Bavaria’s wedding. It begins Sept. 20 and runs for 16 days, sometimes a day or two longer to include German Unity Day, Oct. 3.
Thousands of Bavarians in traditional costume walk in the parade down Maximilian Street to the Oktoberfest grounds, Theresienwiese, the “Wiesn”, named for Ludwig’s bride. Millions revel in the fun and games annually while enjoying traditional foods and Munich beers.
A canal now used for ice skating leads to Nymphenburg Palace, our first destination. Bavarian Elector Ferdinand Maria built this Italian villa style country estate on 600 acres west of Munich for his wife, Italian princess Henriette Adelaide of Savoy, to celebrate the birth of their son and heir to the throne, Maximillian II Emanuel. She called her summer palace “Borgo delle ninfe,” or abode of the nymphs.
Nymphenburg Palace has belonged to the state since the German Revolution of 1918, but Duke Franz is allowed to live on the top floor. His daughter walks her dog in the gardens. We were told they often stop to chat with visitors if spotted on the grounds.
The Great Hall is a top-notch example of Bavarian Rococo style. King Ludwig I’s Gallery of Beauties, portraits of noble and middle-class women, includes the king’s daughter, his Irish mistresses, relatives, a popular actress, a shoemaker’s daughter known as the Beauty of Munich, and Spanish dancer Lola Montez, who was responsible for a revolution and Ludwig I’s abdication.
A combination ticket (6.50 to 11.50 Euros) also includes admission to the Museum of Nymphenburg Porcelain, the Carriage Museum, and park palaces. Park admission is free.
We could have spent the entire day there, but with our limited time, needed to move on to the next stop.
Anyone who has admired BMW’s roadsters should tour the BMW Museum. The 43,000-square feet and nine decades of automobiles, motorcycles and engines is next to the distinctive “4 cylinder” BMW Building and plant (admission is 10 Euros, 7 for seniors).
The latest model BMW, MINI and Rolls-Royce Motor Cars and BMW motorcycles are on display across the street at BMW World (free admission). Get behind the scenes with a guided tour of the BMW Plant (8 Euros, 5 for seniors).
Cross a bridge to Olympic Park, site of the 1972 Summer Olympics, and now a recreation area. It’s easily identified by its distinctive roof and the 951-foot high Olympic Village’s TV Tower, which offers a 360 degree view of the city.
The bus tour continues to Munich’s main boulevard, Leopoldstrasse, past the 55-foot Walking Man statue, and continues to Siegestor, the triple-arched Victory Gate dedicated to the Bavarian army that is now a symbol of peace.
It’s a short walk to the 569-acre English Garden, one of the world’s largest public gardens. The meadow between the Japanese tea house built for the 1972 Olympics and the Greek temple is known for nude sunbathing, and one of its two beer gardens is inside a Chinese pagoda that was rebuilt after World War II.
The Augustinian monastery by Frauenkirche began brewing beer in 1328, making it the oldest brewery in Munich. The adjacent Augustiner Klosterwirtwas our choice for beer and Bavarian favorites that night.
The next day we explored more of the Old Town and returned to Max-Joseph-Platz for lunch at Spatenhaus an der Oper. It’s worth the splurge just for the view of the square from the window tables in the elegant upper floor. Dinner? We couldn’t leave without trying some of Munich’s signature white sausages, Weisswurst, and some local brews at the beer garden at Viktualienmarkt.
Getting around
Most of Munich’s attractions are in the pedestrian-friendly historic area or easily reached by subway or tram. A 1- or 3-day ticket (from 6.20 Euros) is a convenient and economical way to get around on the public transportation system of underground (U-bahn), suburban trains (S-bahn), trams and buses. The Munich CityTourCard ticket includes transport as well as discounts at over 60 partners (from 10.90 Euros). Be sure to validate your ticket in the stamping machine at the entrance to U- and S-Bahn stations or on trams or buses before using the transport system or risk a 40 Euro fine.
The Hop-On Hop-Off route we took begins at the main train station, Hauptbahnhof. The Grand Circle Tour (24 hours, 22 Euros; 48 hours, 27 Euros) is a 21/2 hour loop, plus time for stops. It adds Nymphenburg Palace, the Olympic Park, and BMW World to the six city stops of the Express Circle Tour (15.50 Euros).
The Golden Circle Plus Tour also goes north to Germany’s favorite sports venue, the donut-shaped Allianz Arena. This home of the Bayern Munich soccer team and Germany’s largest club museum is the world’s first stadium to have a full color-changing exterior.
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There’s a lot to do in Munich and having more than 48 hours would be ideal. However, if that isn’t the case, it pays to have a smart plan that includes some highlights of the city, which is sure to leave you thirsting for more.
Seekonk’s Linda Fasteson can be reached for comments and travel tips at rolidakr@comcast.net.